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Food Feature

Hearty stew comforts on a cold day

Posted on Jan 18, 2010 by Angie Holmes.

Joe Stutler adds stout to his savory Irish beef stew at his home in Cedar Rapids. (Cliff Jette/The Gazette)

Joe Stutler adds stout to his savory Irish beef stew at his home in Cedar Rapids. (Cliff Jette/The Gazette)

CEDAR RAPIDS — While bisques and creamed soups are delightful, nothing comforts like a hearty stew on a cold winter day.

With large chunks of meat and vegetables and a thicker base than most soups, stews are cooked “low and slow” to combine the flavors and tenderize the meat, says Cedar Rapids cook Joe Stutler.

Stews can be a one-meal dish or served with bread or a simple salad, according to “Taste of Home’s Big Book of Soup.” Chicken stews or spicy stews pair well with cornbread or tortillas.

On a recent frigid day, Stutler made a savory Irish beef stew.

Joe Stutler coats beef in flour before cooking it for a savory Irish stew. (Cliff Jette/The Gazette)

Joe Stutler coats beef in flour before cooking it for a savory Irish stew. (Cliff Jette/The Gazette)

While pre-cut stew meat is available, a cheaper cut of chuck roast can be used, he says.

“If you don’t mind using a knife and are careful enough not to cut your finger off, it’ll be fine,” he says. “If you want to speed the process up, use a more tender cut of meat.”

For a different twist to this stew, use lamb with or instead of beef.

“You can play with the flavors,” he says.

A flavor that makes everything better, Stutler says, is bacon. After browning the bacon, save the grease in a small bowl and set aside. And as tempting as it is, do not wash the pan.

“You wash that pan out and you’ll lose your flavor,” Stutler says.

To preserve every last bit of flavor, deglaze the pan by pouring a little cold water in it to loosen the browned bits. Use a spatula to scrape off the bits and pour into the stock pot with the beef broth.

“Deglazing brings out the flavor and you have less to clean,” Stutler says.

Another simple way to add flavor is coating the beef chunks in flour seasoned with thyme, black pepper and salt before browning in a frying pan.

“If you brown the meat first, it will have more flavor,” Stutler says.

The flour serves several purposes. It helps brown the meat, holds in juices and will help thicken the stew.

Joe Stutler sautes onions and garlic as he prepares a savory Irish beef stew. (Cliff Jette/The Gazette)

Joe Stutler sautes onions and garlic as he prepares a savory Irish beef stew. (Cliff Jette/The Gazette)

Instead of using oil, put the bacon grease back into the pan and saute the onions and garlic.

Caramelizing the sugars of the onions takes a little of the “harsh out of them,” Stutler says.

Make sure the garlic doesn’t burn or it will get too bitter, he adds.

As with most everything Stutler cooks, he adds beer. Stout works well with beef stew because of its thick, bold favor, he says.

“I have a tendency to cook with beer a lot — either as an ingredient or in my hand,” he says. The beer is added for taste, not effect, as most of the alcohol will cook off.

Another way to add flavor to beef stew is adding a little barbecue sauce, according to “Big Book of Soup.”

The vegetables are not added to the stew until the meat is tender — after simmering for at least an hour — so they won’t get too mushy.

Depending on the consistency, the stew may be eaten with a fork. There may be some broth, but “that’s what bread’s for,” Stutler says.

Lillian Child of Omaha, Neb., says in “Big Book of Soup” that she adds instant potato flakes, 1/2 cup at a time, to her stew just before serving to thicken it.

Stutler usually serves the beef stew in bread bowls to soak up the broth or with farls (potato griddle breads) or soda bread.

Stews can be garnished with shredded cheese, chives, chopped celery and sour cream, according to “Taste of Home.”

SAVORY IRISH BEEF STEW

Makes 4 to 8 servings, depending on portion size

8 ounces thickly sliced bacon, diced

A savory Irish beef stewed created by Joe Stutler at his him in Cedar Rapids. (Cliff Jette/The Gazette)

A savory Irish beef stewed created by Joe Stutler at his home in Cedar Rapids. (Cliff Jette/The Gazette)

2 pounds stewing beef, cut into 1 1/4 inch cubes

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

4 teaspoons dried thyme, divided

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

5 cloves garlic, minced

2 large onions, cut into bite-size pieces

2 cups beef stock

16 ounces Stout beer

4 Tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon brown sugar

2 pounds diced carrots

2 pounds potatoes, cubed

1 bay leaf

Place bacon in a large, deep skillet. Cook over medium high heat until evenly brown. Drain (reserve fat), crumble, and set aside. Put beef, salt, pepper, 2 teaspoons of thyme and flour in large mixing bowl. Toss to coat meat evenly. Brown in skillet with 3 tablespoons bacon fat. Remove meat to stock pot.

Add 3 tablespoons bacon fat to skillet. Add onion and sauté till onion begins to become golden. Add garlic and sauté for an additional minute (don’t brown the garlic). Deglaze skillet with 1/2 cup water and add the garlic-onion mixture to the stock pot with bacon pieces, stock, Stout, Worcestershire sauce and sugar. Cover and simmer until tender (1 to 1 1/2 hours).

Add carrots, onions, potatoes, remaining thyme and bay leaf to pot.

Reduce heat, and simmer covered until vegetables are tender (approximately 20 minutes). Salt and pepper to taste.

From Joe Stutler

FARLS

Makes 4 servings

4 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed

Pinch of salt

1/4 cup all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting

1 tablespoon melted butter

In a pot, cover potatoes with water and bring a boil over high heat. Simmer on medium-high heat until the center of the potatoes are tender when pricked with a fork, about 15 minutes. Turn off heat. Drain, return potatoes to pot and allow to completely dry out over remaining heat. Mash with a potato masher until smooth.

Place warm mashed potatoes in medium bowl. Stir in flour, salt and melted butter. Mix lightly until dough forms.

On a well-floured surface, knead the dough lightly. The dough will be sticky. Use a floured rolling pin to flatten into a 9-inch circle about 1/4-inch thick. Cut into quarters using a floured knife.

Sprinkle a little flour in to the base of the skillet and cook the farls for 3 minutes on each side or until evenly browned. Season with a little salt.

From Joe Stutler

AUBERGINE ALE RAGOUT

4 large eggplants (aubergines)

kosher salt for draining eggplants

1/4 cup olive oil

2 medium onions, chopped

8 garlic cloves, pressed or finely chopped

1 pint (2 cups) flavorful ale

2 pounds ripe tomatoes (preferably plum variety), chopped, or canned diced

4 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped

Salt and ground black pepper to taste

Cut the eggplant into 1-inch thick chunks or cubes and place in a colander. Sprinkle generously with salt and set over the sink or a dish for 30 to 45 minutes. Rinse the eggplant under cold running water and drain well.

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and add the onion. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes or until the onion has caramelized. Add the garlic, and continue to cook for another minute or two until garlic is lightly caramelized. Deglaze the pan with half the ale, and reduce until almost most of the moisture has evaporated.

Add the remaining ale and bring to a boil. Add the eggplant, stirring to coat. Add in the tomatoes, and parsley, and season with salt and pepper. If the mixture looks dry, stir in a tablespoon or two of ale. Cover and simmer for about 50 minutes to one hour, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is very soft and the sauce has thickened.

From Joe Stutler

CHICKEN MUSHROOM STEW

Makes 6 servings

6 boneless skinless chicken breast halves (1 1/2 pounds)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

8 ounces fresh mushrooms, sliced

1 medium onion, diced

3 cups diced zucchini

1 cup diced green pepper

4 garlic cloves, minced

3 medium tomatoes, diced

1 can (6 ounces) tomato paste

3/4 cup water

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon each dried thyme, oregano, marjoram and basil

Cut chicken into 1-inch cubes; brown in 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet. Transfer to a slow cooker. In the same skillet, saute the mushrooms, onion, zucchini, green pepper and garlic in remaining oil until crisp-tender.

Place in slow cooker. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, water and seasonings. Cover and cook on low for 4 hours or until the vegetables are tender.

From Kim Marie Van Rheenen, “Taste of Home’s Big Book of Soup”

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